For Israel’s Circassians, food and language sustain an ancient heritage

On a sunny afternoon, Shina Shabso was busy making traditional cheese pastries for a wedding on Israel’s border with Lebanon, the celebration in the Circassian village of Rehaniya a much-needed break from weeks of war. Known as “halyuj”, the fried semi-circular pastries are a staple of life in this tiny community of Circassians spread across two villages in northern Israel and are served up to honour guests at a celebration or to comfort those who mourn.