Emporio Armani Names Dario Vitale New Creative Director
The Armani fashion house, whose founder and owner Giorgio Armani died last year, on Wednesday named Dario Vitale as the new creative director of its Emporio Armani line.
"The Armani Group is pleased to announce the appointment of Dario Vitale as Creative Director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani Accessories, the first to hold this role outside the Armani family," it said in a statement.
Vitale will join the Armani Group with immediate effect, the company said in a statement.
Saint Laurent Goes for Gold in Paris Show That May Be Vaccarello’s Finale
Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a head-to-toe gold collection of slinky dresses and textured tailoring at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.
The spring/summer 2027 show marked 10 years since Vaccarello's first show for the Parisian label owned by luxury group Kering and came amid reports he was set to step down from the role.
On a raised runway under a giant gold chandelier, models strode past wearing gold dresses with raised embroidery, gold brocade skirts and jackets with sharp collars, and gold trench coats.
The Eiffel Tower also glittered gold in the background of the show staged outdoors at the Trocadero fountain, with front-row guests including Blackpink singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and Oscar-winning actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek.
Black gowns with billowing sleeves and long trains were the final looks of the show, and Charlotte Gainsbourg performed a song in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello came out to applause from the crowd, smiling and waving.
Vaccarello is credited with expanding Saint Laurent's reach. The brand's revenues were down 6% last year but Kering said in July that it had returned to growth in the first half.
Paris Women's Fashion Week opens Monday with a debut show from South African brand MaXhosa Africa and a fresh collection from new-ish Canadian trendsetters Matieres Fecales, look to lift the gloom surrounding the sector.
A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital.
Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their models out on Tuesday.
It could be a last show for Saint Laurent's Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand's success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit.
If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands.
At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed.
At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.
"There were the 'golden years' (for the sector) after Covid, a peak in 2023 and then a luxury market that stabilized," Pascal Morand, executive president of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, told AFP.
"The major groups, mid-sized brands and young designers are not affected in the same way. Markets, outlets and business models are evolving," he said.
Although sales are falling for many brands, there are bright spots.
Since his arrival a year ago at the helm of Chanel, Matthieu Blazy has created a buzz and sales frenzy at the classic French label, with customers queueing outside some boutiques for his latest collections.
His Spring-Summer show takes place next Monday.
Another brand with reason for cheer is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear group founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who has already shown collections privately in Paris but has now been invited to join the official program.
On a mission to promote South African culture and the traditions of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts Michelle Obama and Beyonce as fans.
With his first show on Monday, he will be hoping to emulate the success of Matieres Fecales, the Canadian brand which first appeared in March last year but has gone on to dress a host of celebrities and A-listers.
Its unusual name -- which means fecal matter in French -- was chosen to ensure that people who bought the brand's clothing only wanted it for the design, rather than the name on the label.
After events by Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, the Matieres Fecales show at 7:00pm (1700 GMT) will bring the first day of Paris Fashion Week to a close.
Cardi B Brings Star Power as Roberto Cavalli Goes Wild at Milan Fashion Week
Cardi B was thronged by photographers as she arrived at the Roberto Cavalli runway show Thursday, adding star power to Milan Fashion Week.
Looking glamorous in an animal-print coat, dark sunglasses and a blowout, the rapper took her seat next to stylist Kollin Carter and the show could go on.
Fausto Puglisi turned up the volume as he evolved the Cavalli vocabulary. His Spring-Summer 2027 womenswear collection piled animal prints, florals and feathers onto the house’s familiar foundation of exposed skin and embellished denim.
Flowing robes topped low-rise jeans worn with thongs and bra tops. Cropped jeans glittered with crystals and sprouted feathers, while a mesh minidress erupted into crinkled golden ruffles. Chiffon skirts fell into long shredded hemlines, and animal prints were pieced together in a mishmash suggesting a rumble in the jungle. Prints clashed joyfully in an exuberant collection that played on all the Cavalli codes of glamour and animal instinct.
